Jessica van Dop DeJesus—a travel and food writer, digital content creator, and the author of “The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico”—reports on Puerto Rico’s southern coast for The Washington Post. She says, “Take it from a Guayama native: the Caribbean coast is worth exploring from end to end.” For full article, see NimB. [. I would love it to stay a well-kept secret, but I am proud of my side of the island. Many thanks to Ricky Castro for bringing this item to our attention.]
The scenery starts to change when you leave the tall hotels and tapón (traffic jam) of San Juan behind. Head south on Route 52, and you will start seeing the lush green mountains of Cordillera Central. As you approach the southern coast, the dense vegetation transforms into clusters of cactuses and shrubs, painting an arid landscape against the distant view of the Caribbean Sea.
Ranging east to west from the town of Yabucoa to Cabo Rojo, the southern coast of Puerto Rico is rich in culture, food, beaches, and nature. But beyond all the tangible attractions, locals say the spirit of hospitality makes the place unique. “Our greatest asset is the people, who make people feel at home,” says Milexys Rosado-Romero, the owner of Hacienda Tres Casitas, a farm stay in Cabo Rojo.
I learned this growing up in Guayama, where neighbors traded mangoes for papayas. My parents were always inviting people for coffee, or my dad might arrive home with a bagful of fresh seafood he got from a friend he ran into at the beach.
Unfortunately, no reliable public transport options exist, so renting a car is the best bet to reach the smaller towns and unspoiled beaches. Highway 52 traverses the island from north to south, taking you from San Juan to Guayama in around 90 minutes, depending on traffic, and to Ponce in two hours or less. Highway 2 takes you west to Cabo Rojo and up the western coast, and Route 3 takes you along the eastern coast with scenic ocean views of Patillas and Maunabo.
[. . .] Many of the lodgings offered on the southern coast, from the luxury Copamarina Beach Resort to the kid friendly Combate Beach Resort, have been owned by local families for generations. Farm stays, small inns known as paradors and vacation rentals dominate the accommodations, making for a relaxed scene.
I recommend visiting from Wednesdays to Sundays for a livelier scene and more dining options; earlier in the week is perfect for having the beaches all to yourself.
Low-key beaches in Cabo Rojo
Even the Caribbean Sea beaches on the southern coast of Puerto Rico are in chill mode, more relaxed than their choppy Atlantic Ocean counterparts in the north.
With small waves and shallow waters, Combate Beach, on the southwest corner, is ideal for families. Make it a day-long affair with a passion fruit mojito at Annie’s Place with picturesque sunset views.
For a more rustic beach experience, go to Playa Sucia, one of Puerto Rico’s southernmost beaches. While there, hike the trails leading to El Faro de Cabo Rojo and Puente de Piedra for 360-degree views of a colorful mix of Caribbean blues, sandy-colored rocky enclaves, and green mangroves along the coast. Walk a mile and a half north of Playa Sucia, and you will encounter the Salinas de Cabo Rojo, with colorful, yellow-shouldered blackbirds flying over the pink salt flats.
Boquerón is a neighborhood known for its stands of local fish, oysters and clams. You can also take a dip at its small sandy strip. The neighborhood is vibrant, with music blaring throughout the many kiosks and beachside restaurants, most specializing in seafood. You don’t have to go far inland to find roasted pork at Camino Los Charros. Rosado also recommends La Catumba Lechonera among the many restaurants that specialize in pork.
Restaurants on the rise in Guayama
“Guayama está pegao” — in style, according to what I’ve heard from many friends across the island.
A coastal city on the southeastern side, it is known for having a charming plaza (town square) with homes and buildings dating from the 1800s. One of these historical homes houses Gallo Pinto, a restaurant by chef Ángel David Moreno-Zayas that has become a destination with dishes like grilled oysters, bone marrow with beef tartare, and fried red snapper. [. . .] After a feast at Gallo Pinto, one must save room for ice cream at one of Guayama’s classic spots, Rex Cream. Owned by Chinese-Cuban immigrants, the Louke Chang family, it’s a mandatory stop. A scoop of salty-sweet corn ice cream with a generous sprinkle of cinnamon is perfect for a walk along the plaza. [. . .]
Art and culture in Ponce
It’s hard to find Puerto Ricans prouder of their hometown than Ponceños. I’m not disputing their pride, because the city has so much to offer, especially in terms of arts and culture.
“Start with a walking tour of the city center of Ponce to learn about the history of Ponce and gain an orientation of the city,” says Melina Aguilar-Colón, the founder of Isla Caribe tours. “One of the sights not to be missed is the Parque de Bombas de Ponce,” she said. Initially built in 1882 for the Exhibition Trade Fair, the Ponce firehouse is a symbol of the city; the distinct red-and-black-striped facade was an inspiration for the Ponce flag.
[. . .] The Teatro La Perla, a cultural hub for performance art, is set to reopen in 2025 with plays and musical performances. The Art Museum of Ponce, home of the iconic “Flaming June” by Sir Frederic Leighton (which is currently on loan to the Royal Academy of Arts in London), recently reopened its doors after extensive repairs.
Ponce is also considered the birthplace of plena music, one of the traditional sounds of Puerto Rico. Deeply infused with African beats, plena tells the story of the Puerto Rican people from the early 1900s. You can learn more about plena and other Puerto Rican music like bomba and danza at the Museo de la Música Puertorriqueña, a small museum in the city center.
El Bosque dry forest and bioluminescent bays
According to Aguilar-Colón, “everybody knows about El Yunque rainforest, but nobody talks about El Bosque Seco de Guánica, the dry forest on the island’s southwest coast.” I agree.
One of the things that makes Puerto Rico unique is the contrast of ecosystems in a relatively small island. Walking along the trails, you will notice the different varieties of cactuses, Guayacán trees and mangroves as you get closer to the shoreline. Birdwatchers will rejoice with the sights of sparrow hawks, hummingbirds, and brown pelicans. [. . .] Next to Guánica, in the neighboring town of Lajas, there’s another natural phenomenon. La Parguera is home to one of the three bioluminescent bays of Puerto Rico. [. . .]
See full article and great photos at https://newsismybusiness.com/puerto-ricos-southern-coast-is-the-islands-best-kept-secret/
[Photo above by Ricardo Arduengo/The Washington Post: Visitors hike at Guánica State Forest in Puerto Rico.]
Jessica van Dop DeJesus—a travel and food writer, digital content creator, and the author of “The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico”—reports on Puerto Rico’s southern coast for The Washington Post. She says, “Take it from a Guayama native: the Caribbean coast is worth exploring from end to end.” For full article, see NimB. [.
