Fresh off an early morning Eurostar service from London’s St Pancras, I feel excited when my taxi pulls up outside Maison Proust, and I discover its serene location on a tree-lined Parisian backstreet. Getting out of the car I wonder for a moment if I’m at the right place; I can’t see an obvious sign and its plain grey façade looks more like a private mansion than a hotel. As I contemplate getting back in the cab, a young man in an elegant navy suit appears from behind a grand door and welcomes me with a smile.
Inside, it’s a fun surprise to discover the decadent Belle Époque décor that evokes the style of the salons Marcel Proust would once have frequented. Standing in a darkened wood-panelled entry way lined with glass cabinets filled with curiosities, I am instantly transported back in time – and inspired to read some Proust, a great French author I am loath to admit I know very little about.
Sipping a welcome glass of chilled black tea infused with hibiscus and pepper in the cosy guest lounge and bar, I take in my new surroundings. It’s a theatrical mix of dusky blue velvet, distressed mirrors, wood panelling and tasselled lampshades that sets the tone for the rest of the hotel.
Waiting for my keys, I explore the thickly carpeted space and find a circular library, with a celestial ceiling inspired by “The Rotonde du Soleil” at Opéra Garnier, and a secret alcove. It’s the perfect spot for delving into Proust’s epic seven-volume novel, “In Search of Lost Time” (“À la Recherche du Temps Perdu”, I later learn he’s best known for.
Why stay here?
Set on a quiet street in heart of the Marais with its lively village atmosphere, luxurious Maison Proust is the ideal refuge for those who appreciate hotels with character, art, literature and history, and who seek a tranquil weekend escape in the heart of Paris. With its small, cosy spaces, it appeals to couples and solo travellers looking for a discreet base.
The hotel’s 23 compact, individually designed, street-facing rooms are split across six floors, set off curved darkened corridors. Ranging in size from doubles to junior suites, they’re named after Proust’s friends, including writers such as Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette and Emile Zola and painters such as Edouard Manet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir.
A peaceful night is guaranteed at Maison Proust, thanks to a combination of triple-glazed windows, blackout curtains, luxurious beds and high-quality linens. Rich colour palettes, sumptuous carpets and opulent fabrics like silk drapes and velvet sofas are décor hallmarks. Lampshades are decorated with pages from Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time”, while bathrooms clad in marble have deep tubs, showers – or both – and luxurious Italian body products made with almond milk and orange blossom.
Before you arrive, it’s worth reserving an hour-long session at the Salon d’Eau, an exclusive Moorish-style relaxation space, with a steam room and a warm 33ft lap pool. Book into Spa La Mer, which offers indulgent treatments like lifting facials and revitalising massages, by appointment only.
Eating and drinking
Although there’s no restaurant at the hotel, breakfast – continental, American or à la carte – is served in the light-flooded glassed-in winter garden decorated with huge portraits of women in Proust’s life.
Come early evening, snacks like truffle tarama, burrata with olives, artichoke hearts, smoked salmon, and French cheeses, to name a few, are served when the bar opens. Drinks-wise, a comprehensive menu features several absinthes, 16 gins and 40 whiskys. Cocktails are as rich as the surroundings, like the Albertine, a sweet and punchy concoction laced with cognac and apricot syrup and topped with champagne.
Things to do
If you can drag yourself out of your artfully decorated salon-style room, the excitement of the Marais awaits. Start with a browse around the cluster of upscale boutiques along the Rue Vieille du Temple, before exploring the dizzying choice of restaurants and bars on surrounding streets. Great options include Candelaria, Mesures, and the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the city’s oldest food market.
And it’s a 15-minute stroll to the Musée Carnavalet, whose temporary collection includes the reconstituted bedroom of Marcel Proust, featuring his polished-wood bed draped with a deep blue coverlet, his cane and coat, and the writer’s precious pen.
The verdict
The quiet yet central location in the Marais is a unique combination that promises a fun-filled but relaxing trip to Paris. With its darkened corridors and small decadent spaces, it’s the perfect romantic refuge from the nearby hustle and bustle, that inspires you to want to be creative, and to read more.
Ellie was a guest of Eurostar and Maison Proust.
This luxury boutique hotel devoted to the French novelist is perfect for a romantic weekend
