At Rock Villa, I almost feel like I’m hovering above the world. From my perch on a sun lounger, Friendship Bay stretches out below me – the curve of the powdery sand beach, the impossible blue of the sea and the calming lapping of the waves against the shore.
This villa is high enough to feel secluded, but never removed from the gentle rhythm of the Caribbean island of Bequia. From this spot, I can watch the sunlight stream across the bay, see boats drift in and out, and feel a warm breeze carrying the scent of sweet frangipani. It’s a unique kind of luxury: a slow pace that lets you see the island from the best possible vantage point.
Why stay here?
The island of Bequia (pronounced Bek-way) – the largest of the Grenadines, but only seven square miles – feels wholly Caribbean. In some ways, Bequia remains a secret, and as such, it hasn’t been overly developed, commercialised or smoothed into sameness.
Instead, the rhythm of Bequia is in its authenticity. It’s in the small church where the echoes of song and tambourines float onto the street. It’s in the spacious field near the airport where the laughter of children rings out as they play football. And it’s in the boats to which men add the finishing touches of paint before whaling season as the trade winds blow. It’s island life. On their terms. You stay in Bequia because it feels totally real.
Accessed only by small plane or ferry, Bequia encapsulates a feeling of being “off the beaten track”. And this sensation is taken up a notch at Rock Villa, tucked away on a hill, but only a stone’s throw from an idyllic beach.
The rooms
As the smallest hotel on the island (or the largest villa, depending on your point of view), Rock Villa feels like a hideaway. But if you want to retreat even further, you’d be hard pressed to find a more relaxing bedroom in which to do so.
Spacious and thoughtfully laid out, the room makes the very most of light, air and privacy. Large patio doors can invite in the breeze if you so choose, and offer yet another breathtaking view. A sizable bed feels a tad like its own private island, albeit with cloud-soft pillows and comfy duvet. Light colours with pops of green seem to blend seamlessly into the lush surroundings, and the bathroom is complete with twin basins, a giant bath, and a walk-in rainfall shower.
There is good wardrobe space, and even a mini-fridge if you need something cold, while a relaxing chaise longue is the perfect place to sit and read a book. There is a bedside alarm, but this is the kind of place where you’ll wake up naturally: the sound of chirping geckos might jar when you first arrive but becomes second nature by the time you leave, and when sunlight streams through the curtains, you’re sure to feel a sense of restoration.
Eating and drinking
Breakfast at Rock Villa is an unhurried affair. I take it outside, on a table overlooking the bay, as the clouds roll across the sky. For me, it’s always tea first, and I’m buoyed to find Twinings on offer, alongside a host of herbal infusions. A fresh fruit platter of mango, passionfruit, melon and grapes is always available. But otherwise, you can customise breakfast to your taste: whether it’s simple poached eggs, toast with local preserves, or fluffy pancakes smothered in sweet syrup.
Throughout the day, Rock Villa feels like a home away from home when it comes to eating and drinking. You can stroll up to the fridge in the kitchen and grab an ice-cold rum punch (sure to knock your socks off) or a can of something fizzy. Snacks are also laid out by the attentive staff, including crispy plantain chips and gooey chocolate brownie bites. A private chef is also available for a stay at the property, meaning you can enjoy fine dining options from the comfort of your villa.
A visit to the nearby Sand Bar is essential for anyone staying at Rock Villa, and it’s exactly where you’ll want to be at lunchtime: feet in the sand, sea breeze in your hair, cocktail in hand. My order is the day’s special: the jerk chicken burger and fries, and I pair it with a deliciously creamy pina colada. It’s the type of meal that feels quintessentially Caribbean, especially as you watch the waves break on the shore only a few paces away.
If you’re staying in Rock Villa, you’ll know that Bequia Beach Hotel is a 15-minute walk along the beach, or a short taxi ride. The charming boutique hotel opened in 2009, and is home to two beautiful restaurants.
Blue Tropic, perched at the top of the property and offering views over the beautifully maintained gardens, is the hotel’s Italian-themed restaurant. The menu is short, but you can expect to find Italian staples such as traditionally made pizzas and pasta. Particularly famous is the lobster ravioli, which is frequently recommended before my visit. Blue Tropic is not a place you visit if you’re looking for Caribbean fare, but its intimate feel does suit the smaller nature of the hotel, and feels cosy and romantic.
Bagatelle is the slightly more rambunctious option. While it frequently offers a sit-down service, the real highlight is the Caribbean buffet night. On Wednesdays, you can flow effortlessly from the owner’s weekly cocktail event at the bar, straight into the restaurant, where the grill is fired up and ready to go with delicious options including tender ribs, flaky salmon and spicy jerk chicken. Live music is performed by a local band, and you’re sure to recognise familiar hits given extra Caribbean flavour.
Bequia is also home to a smattering of local restaurants in the town – or port, as I’m told the locals refer to it. A huge benefit of being on such a small island is that you are never too far away from a host of locations. A must-try is Laura’s, a bistro perfectly placed on the water’s edge, and offering a wide range of delicious options from seafood to pasta. Visit at dusk for the perfect view of the sun slowly sinking behind the horizon.
Things to do
A tour of Bequia is a rewarding way to understand the island. On the back of a unique pick-up truck taxi, you’ll move through local communities, wind your way around quiet beaches, and travel up to viewpoints that fully reveal the island’s shape. Along the way, you can expect to meet locals, hear stories about Bequia’s rich whaling tradition, and get a feel for daily life. Once back, consider popping into the hotel’s boutique. It sells gorgeous swimwear and resortwear from the Bequia Beach Bums brand, capturing the breezy feel of the island.
For a day on the water, consider a speed boat trip to explore the stunning Tobago Cays. The ride is quick, the scenery dramatic, and you may even spot turtles and a host of other beautiful sea creatures.
Back at Rock Villa, a sip and paint with local artist Colin Peters proves an afternoon well spent. With a glass of chilled rosé in hand, and the beautiful bay in front of you, it’s the perfect opportunity to produce a masterpiece. Peters is an outstanding teacher but, never fear, it is less about the finished product and more about slowing down to connect with the tranquil setting.
Another ideal way to unwind is a quiet and grounding yoga session. Guided on the terrace by local practitioner Patricia at Sati Yoga, and overlooking the water, you can move slowly, breathe deeply, and let the surroundings do the work for you.
The verdict
Rock Villa is for holidaymakers who value space, calm, and rehabilitation. From good food to quiet mornings, time outdoors, and just enough activity when you want it, the easy atmosphere of the island pervades every part of your stay.
If you’re looking for a Caribbean destination that is personal, genuine and unhurried, Rock Villa fits the bill.
Rebekah Evans was a guest of Rock Villa, Bequia, part of Bequia Beach Hotel – one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World
This gorgeous property is the perfect setting to do absolutely nothing – and that’s the best part