Jewellery designer Koketso Mohlala’s latest Adinkra-inspired designs are indicative of her brand values and passion for the mother continent. Founded in 2013, Ditsala Designs is an African jewellery brand dedicated to crafting bold, unique and authentically African pieces that celebrate heritage
and culture.
This is seen in the names Mohlala gives to her pieces and collections, among them Bontle Ba Africa (Beauty of Africa), Onalenna (God is with Me) and Khensani (Gratitude) to name a few.
Her work, which has been worn by the likes of Thuso Mbedu, Bontle Modiselle and Somizi Mhlongo, also includes a stunning neckpiece worn by singer Maleh on the cover sleeve of her latest singles, Baba and Bula Ditsela.
Mohlala’s brand was the jewellery supplier for both Shaka iLembe in 2024 and the Miss South Africa finale last year.
In 2020 her work was also featured in the Black Parade Route directory curated by Beyoncé’s stylist Zerina Akers.
“For me, celebrating African heritage and beauty as an artist and brand is more than an aesthetic choice,” Mohlala said during our interview.
“It is a profound commitment to reclaiming our narratives and fostering cultural empowerment.”
Ancient and modern aesthetics
In ancient Africa, jewellery had many uses and purposes. Beyond a status symbol for wealth and social standing, various communities used it for tribal identification, spiritual protection and currency for trading.
Mohlala continues the tradition by using her work to remind, affirm and celebrate our Africanness in a modern world often defined by Western beauty standards.
“I draw inspiration from ancient African art and fashion, as well as from other African designers like Adele Dejak, who has been a formidable presence in the industry for years.”
Handcrafted with love, Mohlala’s creative process involves methods like hand hammering, filigree and casting to produce mind-blowing bespoke designs. While cowrie shells, beads, wood, bones and leather can produce mesmerising pieces, metals such as silver, bronze and brass are Mohlala’s materials of choice.
Her motivation to start Ditsala Designs came from frustration. “I grew tired of seeing young Africans follow trends set by Americans and Europeans, so I decided to be the change I wanted to see.”
Through research and networking, Mohlala realised there was a gap in the South African jewellery industry, one she felt compelled to fill. However, the path was not her
first choice.
“My love for jewellery came unexpectedly,” Mohlala stated. “I originally wanted to be a fashion designer because of my passion for style. However, while watching Isidingo one day, I fell in love with the character of Parsons, who was a jewellery designer. Because I’ve always valued being different, I decided to research jewellery design and 20 years later, here I am.”
After graduating from Prestige College Private School in 2006, Mohlala initially enrolled for PC Engineering. After completing the course, she was given the opportunity to participate in a Mining Qualifications Authority learnership through the Atteridgeville Jewellery Project.
Once she completed the learnership, the Atteridgeville Jewellery Project recommended Mohlala to the Umjindi Jewellery Project to pursue an advanced CAD (Rhinoceros) course, where she was trained by Evert van Eangelan.
After finishing three short courses, she was declared competent by the Assessment College through the MQA. In 2017, Mohlala earned a European Master Diploma in Goldsmithing, Gemstone Setting and Design.
Africa finale last year.
Overcoming and shining
When I first met Mohlala in Pretoria in 2012, she was a budding jeweller facing challenges such as finding equipment and workshops to complete her orders. Breaking into the market was a significant challenge for Ditsala Designs.
“I was introducing a fresh perspective to an industry historically dominated by white males. To navigate this, I followed the lead of successful African designers who blend bold concepts with practical, day-to-day wearability, making premium pieces more accessible to a broader audience.”
Beyond design, Mohlala adds, sourcing raw materials and finding reputable suppliers also proved to be difficult. But with an enterprising mind, a supportive network and a growing clientele, she has been able to overcome some of the challenges in building her brand.
“I made the strategic choice to work within established companies first, allowing me to master the intricacies of running a successful jewellery business from the inside out.”
The last time I saw Mohlala was at the 2024 DStv Delicious International Food and Music Festival in Midrand, Johannesburg. To her it was a typical weekend of showcasing her stunning work. But to festival attendees seeing her work for the first time, it was an enchanting experience.
Besides such mega events, some of Mohlala’s career highlights include showcasing as an Emerging Creative at the Designs Indaba in 2015. In that same year she received a scholarship to study further in Italy.
In 2022, Mohlala received the Fiasa Accessory Designer of the Year at the Fashion Industry Awards. She was also a top 10 finalist at the Anglo American PlatAfrica jewellery design competition in 2024.
Being a black female jewellery designer, Mohlala says the most humbling highlight was in 2023 when she and her team finally moved from operating from her mother’s garage in Soshanguve to having a fully equipped jewellery manufacturing studio in Amandasig, Pretoria.
Advising the next generation
To young and aspiring jewellery makers who want to enter this space, Mohlala says telling an African authentic story is vital. “Avoid copying international trends. Ditsala Designs succeeded by making ‘Africa a trend’ through pieces that celebrate indigenous heritage and identity.”
Although formal training and having a team is also important, creative exploration of your surroundings is what Mohlala advises. “Use local resources, embrace raw, organic African minerals and even recycled goods to create authentically African products.”
From Queen Nefertiti rings and Ankh earrings to Zulu-inspired pieces, Mohlala has taken her bespoke jewellery brand from the township to magazine covers, TV screens and global stages.
She crafts and walks with her Pedi heritage unapologetically intact, shining a light on Africa’s pride and beauty through Ditsala Designs. To friends and family, we know her as “Kokie”, to herself she proudly chants: “Ke Koketjo ya diMpho tja Mangeloi lapeng la Ga-Mohlala. Ke MoPedi. (I am the addition of angels’ gifts in the home of Ga-Mohlala. I
am Pedi.)”
Koketso Mohlala is the embodiment of African creativity and craftsmanship.
Koketso Mohlala challenges Western beauty standards and shines a global spotlight on authentic African craftsmanship