Sitting atop a hill on the southern edge of the Cotswolds, Malmesbury looks like a postcard. Pretty stone-built cottages and antiques shops line the cobbled streets, and the hauntingly beautiful 12th-century abbey still stands proudly at the centre of the quiet market town.
Next door is the wisteria-clad Old Bell Hotel, dating back over 800 years. Its owners – Kim and Whit Hanks – claim it is the oldest inn in England. So it’s something of a surprise, stepping through the front door, to be greeted by two life-size giraffes. “Don’t worry: they’re not real,” the receptionist reassures me. “Giraffes are Kim’s favourite animal.”
It’s the first of many quirky design details throughout the hotel. Each room is a riot of colours, patterns, and eclectic furnishings – a far cry from the muted shades of beige and grey that typically adorn high-end English country hotels. But then, Kim and Whit are Texans.
The American hoteliers purchased the Old Bell back in 2021; Whit knew he had ancestral ties to Malmesbury, but it wasn’t until they bought the property that they discovered one of his distant relatives had owned part of the hotel over a century earlier. The result is a striking blend of old and new, preserving the building’s storied history while adding a sense of fun.
Why stay here?
No two rooms are the same. Kim worked closely with designer Charlotte Smiley to put her stamp on the bold interiors, and each of the 34 rooms are unique, with carefully chosen hand-drawn wallpapers and intricately patterned curtains.
To soak up the history, book one of the suites in the main building (a word of warning: the hotel is said to be haunted). Named after people who have owned or leased the hotel throughout its history, these are the most spacious accommodations: some have grand four-poster beds, wooden beamed ceilings, and views of the abbey. There are also a handful of dog-friendly rooms, and a collection of smaller ‘cosy’ rooms in the adjoining coach house.
Across the road from the hotel are four freshly renovated townhouse suites, which opened earlier this year. Ideal for groups of friends or families, the sprawling apartments offer total privacy, with their own kitchens and living areas. We stayed in 52b, a two-bedroom suite set across two floors (it felt almost ludicrously spacious for two), with two sizable bathrooms and a cosy snug that’s perfect for film nights.
The interiors won’t be to everyone’s taste (there’s a wall-mounted stag’s head with a lightbulb dangling from its mouth) but it was very comfortably kitted out with plush velvet sofas and a particularly luxurious master bathroom complete with a roll-top bath. The heavenly scented Bramley toiletries were a nice touch, too.
There were some issues with soundproofing – at one point it sounded like furniture was being moved upstairs – but once our neighbours quietened down we had a peaceful night’s sleep, and it was lovely waking up to views of the rolling green hills and honey-coloured cottages below.
Eating and drinking
Even if you’re staying in one of the townhouses, dinner is just steps away at the hotel’s Abbey Row restaurant. Expect more eccentric design details from the richly patterned wallpaper to the colourful stained-glass windows and unusual antiques. The menu is brimming with local, seasonal ingredients, including vegetables grown at the neighbouring Abbey House Manor and Gardens – also owned by Kim and Whit.
We kicked things off with the maple-glazed mackerel served with a dollop of burnt apple purée and a light, refreshing salad of fennel and cucumber shavings topped with nasturtium leaves and edible flowers. Other stand-out dishes included the hearty mains: a tender slab of venison perfectly complemented by crispy potatoes and a port jus; and the salt-cured cod, served with a generous mound of silky pomme purée and a decadent champagne and caviar butter sauce.
Afterwards, head to the cosy bar for a nightcap (keep an eye out for the grand stone fireplace that is over 700 years old). Over the summer, there’s also an open-air bar with stuffed monkeys clambering along the ceiling, which looks like a lively spot for cocktails.
Things to do
It’s easy to fill a morning pottering down the high street, stopping to browse in the antiques and second-hand shops or read a book in one of the cafes. As you would expect, it’s a wonderful spot for walks (guests can borrow wellies from the hotel). Consider ambling along the two-and-half-mile River Walk, which follows the River Avon through woods and meadows passing historical landmarks along the way like the Conygre Mead pond where monks from the abbey fished for carp.
The Old Bell is also a great base from which to explore the area’s picturesque villages; Castle Combe, often described as the prettiest village in England, is less than half an hour away, and well worth a visit to marvel at the medieval architecture and visit the 12th-century pub, the Castle Inn.
The verdict
If you’re fed up with pared-back hotels that look more or less the same, the Old Bell Hotel will feel like a refreshing change. The owners have dared to be different – and it’s paid off. Playful and fun without sacrificing comfort, it’s perfect for a weekend away in the Cotswolds.
Irenie was a guest of The Old Bell Hotel, oldbellhotel.co.uk
Giraffes, monkeys and bold, bright colours add a playful touch to this 800-year-old inn
